Nairobi gets a bad press. Its reputation for crime has earned it the nickname 'Nai-robbery' and neighbourly rivallry means Ugandans don't speak particularly highly of it (and vice versa we discovered - I became quite defensive of my adopted country!). If you read the Lonely Planet, then it advises you to get the hell out of there as soon as possible.
We spent a couple of nights there before boarding the train to Mombasa and I have to say I was more than pleasantly surprised. As you leave the airport, a shiny modern car takes you along a smooth 3 lane dual-carriage way into the city. Nairobi is a pillar of organisation compared to Kampala. I am ashamed to say that after living in Kampala for 2 years, I have never used a matatu. Not a single journey. On Day One in Nairobi, I was hopping on and off the buses like a local, taking advantage of the neatly painted signs on the sides of the buses and standing in the designated spot in the signed and official bus stop. Much easier than trying to decipher rapid fire Luganda!
The supermarket Nakumatt offered a dizzying range of products which left us Kampalarites awe-struck - ready-made hummus, aubergine dip, Dorset muesli, freshly baked granary bread topped with sunflower seeds, Philadelphia, cheddar cheese with a real bite to it, a whole range of lip balms and many more. I'm even considering taking a mini-break to Nairobi just to stock up on goodies!
Nairobi has all mod-cons. I bathed under an electric shower, a real one, not the Bolivian type that gives you an electric shock if youput your hand too close to the control unit. There are washing machines and vacuum cleaners and all sorts of gadgets - crikey if I lived in Nairobi I may not have enough excuses to have a maid!
Central Nairobi seems calm and collected. Even in the rush hour, the drivers keep their cool, patiently waiting to get through the throngs of traffic. I certainly didn't miss the honking of the horns. People dress smartly and walk briskly with a purpose. The city centre has wide roads and none of the litter thant plagues Kampala. It is pleasant to see and shows a pride in where they live.
Then there is the 'Little England' of Karen, the suburb named after Karen Blixen, author of 'Out of Africa'. This is true Muzungu Land, with a couple of buses passing through now and again to transport the hoards of askaris, maids, cooks, gardeners and other staff of the privileged few. The tree lined avenues hide the mansions that lie behind and signs point towards horse riding schools, private country clubs and exclusive restaurants. Oh to live in Karen ... I am starting to feel hard done by!
1 comment:
You know they have very good International Schools in Nairobi! Just a thought...
Post a Comment