What I saw on safari!

Up until now, my safari experiences have all been in Uganda. Here, safari is peaceful and you can get close to nature, often without encountering another car for several hours. Many of the visitors to the National Parks here are working in the country, and they show off the country to their visiting friends and family. In Tanzania, however, safari is a big business.
As soon as I passed through the gates of Lake Manyara, I knew this was going to be a somewhat different experience. For starters, the loos were fully flushable, complete with liquid soap and hand dryers. There was a plush gift shop, selling everything from cans of coca-cola to fluffy toy lions. I was most fascinated by some of the creatures we spotted within the park - a totally different species of tourist to those found in Uganda.
What is the purpose of the face mask and why do people feel it necessary to wear matching khaki? I am not kidding when I tell you that I actually saw somebody wearing a 'Dr Livingstone, I presume' style pith helmet!

Multi-functional belt

What are you afraid of?

Full safari suit plus paparazzi lens

Matching hats

Is this a traffic jam on the M25? Oh no - there's a lion in the distance

Be careful - those animals may steal your bag

Can anyone explain the gloves?

9 out of 10 Ugandans would have something to say about the size of this arse!

 In short, I enjoyed the safari and spotting the Big Five, but came away with a new found appreciation for the tranquility of a safari in Uganda.

Safari stories

The Ngoronogoro Crater

Getting close to the tents!

Look who visited our campsite for a drink of water!

If you squint, you may see a rhino here

Sunrise over the crater

Happy campers!

Morning in the crater

I love the baby zebra!

Wildebeest remind me of grumpy old men

Wildebeest fight

The pink dots are flamingos

Not content with just one adventure, three of us decided to take advantage of being in Tanzania and to go on safari. I wasn't sure quite what our budget safari would entail, but Sunny Safaris did us proud. Camping, afterall, is much more enjoyable when you have somebody else to put up the tent and to cook all your meals!

After all that exercise and hard work, we decided to let our hair down a little. My Grandad used to say that it was OK to have a drink as long as 'the sun is over the yard arm'. I never really understood what a yard arm was, but I think it has something to do with boats and the navy and suggests that you probably shouldn't be boozing before mid-day. I have to say that 'Kili Time' - that is the time we cracked open our first Kilimanjaro beer got earlier every-day and the sun may not have been quite over the yard arm!

Our first game drive took us to Lake Tarangire, where we saw herds, not packs, of elephants. My friend also claimed to spot a fox on the campsite, but I think she was still suffering from altitude related delirium, or perhaps she had had one too many Kilimajaros!
Lake Manyara was another prime spot for seeing wildlife. Here we saw a tree climbing lion. I was surprised to see this, as I had been led to believe that the Ishasha National Park in Uganda was the only place to have tree climbing lions. Perhaps this one was taking a holiday!

The next day, we set off to the Ngorongoro Crater. This has to be one of the most spectacular settings for seeing wildlife in the world. Formed by volcanic activity a gazillion years ago, the area contains thousands of zebra, wildebeest, buffalo, lions, cheetahs, rhino and flamingos on the lake. The animals are contained inside the crater area, so it;s like entering a gigantic natural zoo. We saw a couple of cheetahs and rhinos in the far distance, but didn't get close enough to take a shot of them. I was cursing myself because I only had my point and shoot camera, so will have to hope that the images are engraved on my memory.

Handy Hints for Kili!

If what you have read so far has inspired you to climb Kili, rather than run away from anything mountainlike, then here are a few handy hints to help you along the way. I wish I had seen a little more practical advice before I went.

Do make sure you have matching carrier bags inside your boots!

• Dry Sacks - Get one big dry sack to put inside your backpack that the porters carry. Also, put everything in your day pack inside some kind of waterproof bags, such as ziplock bags. My year old passport is now dog-eared and tatty and the book I took with me for the rest day never got dry and has actually grown mould. It is very embarrassing to be seen reading a mouldy book on the post-Kili safari!
•  Crocs - I admit that I have made some quite derogatory remarks about this footwear in the past. However, I swallowed my words on the trip and borrowed my friend's crocs a lot on the trek. They are light to carry and are waterproof. They are also quick to throw on when you need to leave the hut for a wee in the middle of the night. Plus you can still get them on your feet when you are wearing multiple pairs of socks.
• Snacks - Take a variety of savoury and sweet snacks and pack them in separate plastic bags for each day. Don't make my mistake of having the same thing each day. I don't think I will be able to face jelly tots or peanut and raisin mix for a long time. I also found the isotonic drink powders invaluable for replacing lost fluids.
• Get fit first - We were all as fit as fiddles before setting off and this paid off on the mountain. Kili is a place to use your fitness, not a place to develop it.
• Spare trainers - You may wish to give your feet a break from the hiking boots at times, especially on the afternoon descent following the summit day.
• Talcum powder and wet wipes - Essentially, these items play a large role in personal hygeine on the mountain, infact the principal role! Sprinkle talc on your feet, inside your socks and boots at every opportunity. The drier your feet, the less blisters you will get. A spot of talc in the hair also stops it from looking so gross after 6 days without a wash (although I was seldom seen without a hat).
• Thermals - at least 2 pairs of thermal trousers and 2 tops. I was pretty chilly and wished that I had a little more. Make sure you buy them in the Winter in the UK - they disappear from the shelves in summer.
• Acclimatisation day - This optimises your chances of reaching the summit. It is seriously worth the extra cash.
• Shower - Take a shower (at least 20 mins) wearing your waterproof gear and hiking boots before leaving. If anything leaks, sort it out before you leave. You may feel silly, but it's better than being cold and wet.
• Carrier bags - Pack everything inside carrier bags, according to the days you think you will need the clothes on the mountain and label it. It makes packing up and getting dressed at every camp much quicker. Bring extra carrier bags to shove your sleeping bag and thermarest in when you can't be bothered to squeeze them into the little bags. Carrier bags can also be worn inside your hiking boots to keep your feet dry.
• A positive attitude towards other climbers - I wish I could have met our own group either on the way up or down. Wish climbers luck on their way up and congratulate everyone as they descend. It makes a massive difference!

Well I am sure there are many more handy hints, but that should suffice for now. Feel free to add to the list!

The Summit

Kibo, the final base camp, lies at a dizzying 4700 metres above sea level. The air is thin and it's extremely cold. We went to bed at 6pm already dressed for the summit. I was wearing thermals, plus 3 pairs of trousers and 8 layers on top. I blame this for my decidedly chunky appearance on the summit photos, although the Swahili omelet and the daily chocolate bars for energy may also have played a small part too!
At 10pm, we had to wrench ourselves out of bed in order to prepare ourselves for the most challenging and frightening part of the climb so far. We drank a final cup of Milo (I had developed quite a habit by this point), wrapped water bottles in socks to prevent the water freezing and practised blowing water back into the camel packs. By 11pm, we were ready to head off into the cold, starry night.
Looking back now, it is all a bit of a blur and hard to believe that we climbed for a massive 7 hours before daylight. Fortunately, it was a full moon that night which allowed us to walk without using our head torches. We set off, single file, into the night and towards a distant summit, 1200 metres above us. To put that into perspective, Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK, is 1344 metres. Also, from here on, the path is entirely made up of scree, rocks and snow. The guides had said they would be very strict with us, and only allow us to break once an hour. The beginning was manageable, putting one foot in front of the other, concentrating on breathing. After the second break, the water in my camel pack was frozen solid and I was struggling to find the energy to take the bottle out of my bag. I tried eating my snacks, but this was also a massive effort and I had no appetite. I'm not sure what point the group started to separate out, but I do remember becoming totally overwhelmed at one point. We had been advised not to look up or down, but this is easier said than done. I glanced down and saw the lights of Moshi town, roughly 5000 metres below. Above, only stars and snow. My knees started to shake and I felt dizzy. I'm not the best with heights, so I told myself that it was just fear that was making me shake and nothing more serious. The guides were amazing, listening to me ranting and providing constant reassurance. When I felt to weak,  my guide Alfred took my bag and even found my snacks and water for me. I got myself together and continued to put one foot in front of the other.

Just after Gilman's Point - I couldn't bring myself to smile!

Sunrise over the mountain

Glaciers - an icy world!

This is Africa!

On the rooftop of Africa!

I have no idea of the timescale of events throughout the evening, but as the first summit, Gilman's Point loomed into view I was close to two of my colleagues. They were equally tired and shaky, but sheer willpower forced us all through. We clambered over the boulders and got there in the end. At Gilman's Point, I heard a guide saying 'you have to go down'. I thought it was all over for me, but he was actually talking to one of the students. He insisted that I would get to the summit. The mental struggle far outweighs the physical and I pushed myself on, but had slowed down significantly by this point, temporarily losing sight of my friends. The sun started to rise as I passed the glaciers and walked along the ridge towards the summit. My emotions were all over the place, I cried a lot and nearly gave up a hundred times. When I thought I was still an hour away from the Uhuru Summit I passed a friend who was on her way back. The news that I was only ten minutes away turned everything around. A few minutes later I was at the summit! I bloody-well did it!!
The summit should be some sort of amazing, earth shattering experience. The views were out of this world and the sense of achievement was incredible. This is real life though and not everything was so ethereal. Still light-headed and emotional, I was now also desperate for a wee! Not only was I desperate, but I managed to announce this fact very loudly on the video my friend was filming for the school assembly. I had envisioned taking hundreds of photos, but I was so cold and tired that I could just about point the camera somewhere into space and press the button. I didn't give a dam that half the images were blurry from my hand shaking from the cold either!
Now coming down the mountain was another story. Descending has never been my strong point! First, I tried tobogganing down, as I was wearing ski-trousers, it wouldn't be a problem. This worked well until I smashed my wrist against a boulder when I picked up a little too much velocity! Then I tried going down very gingerly, which resulted in my already sore wrists getting even more sore. My third tactic was just going for it and trying to race down the scree - it was slightly more effective, but I did fall on my bum an awful lot. Three quarters of the way down, a rescue committee had come out to help me and an equally doddery friend. They ripped off about 3 layers of our clothing, as the sun was now hot. They brought us lemon squash and frog-marched us down to the camp at break-neck speed.

Eleven out of sixteen of our team made it to the Uhuru Summit. A couple more also made it to Gilman's Point. I think it is important to mention that making it to the final summit or not should not be a case of success or failure. Nobody knows what can happen to their body at that altitude and the most important thing is to take care of your health. A couple of the kids were ready to collapse from sheer exhaustion and I think it was actually quite brave of them to turn around and say they would go back, rather than stubbornly carrying on and putting themselves in danger. Everyone of us got up into the middle of the night and bravely started the long walk ahead. The real achievement is in the mental and physical strength it took us all to keep putting one foot in front of another day after day. I could not have asked for a more supportive or strong team and the kids' energy pushed us all through.

We took the Marangu or Coca-cola  route and used Kilitreks & Safaris. I highly recommend them! Unfortunately, our highly inspirational, cheer-leading students can not be hired as they are all too busy studying for their iGCSEs or IB diplomas to have time to climb Kili again

The Big Climb

After months of preparation, the big climb finally arrived. I had read many blogs that had scared me half to death, with tales of acute mountain sickness and crippling blisters. I had planned to keep a journal as I went, but the torrential downpour on the first day soaked everything inside my bag, so that put paid to that idea.

Kili in the clouds

Day One

Add caption

Just as we arrived at the entrance to the National Park, the heavens opened. We all dug in our backpacks and found our crisp new waterproofs and got ready for the long walk ahead. The  pouring rain may not have dampened our spirits, but a fair few of the people descending the mountain tried their best. Our cheerful group clapped and cheered everyone who had attempted the climb, greeting the porters and guides with 'Mambo poa, mambo vipi' (Swahili for 'how's it going?). In return, we heard tales of snow up to the armpits at the summit and temperatures plummeting to minus twenty-two. I started to wish that I had hired extra thermals but it was too late at that point.
The rain actually worked in our favour, meaning that the temperature was much more temperate for climbing. The first day takes you through tropical rain forest and up to an altitude of 2700m - similar to that of Bogota, where I lived a few years ago. It was much colder than I remembered though - or perhaps I have just gone a bit soft after living in Kampala for such a long time.


Day Two

Day Two took us from the tropical rain forest into a more alpine like environment. I believe we are possibly the most cheerful group ever to climb Kili, with the students almost singing and dancing their way up the path. The incline was still gentle and the path was wide and well maintained. The sunshine lasted until about 11am ... then it did not just rain, but hailed. By the time we reached the pic-nic site for lunch I was shivering and soaked to the skin. The mud was intense, people were slipping all over the place and my boots were starting to leak a little. It was, to all intents and purposes, miserable. The soup at lunch time did little to warm me up when we were sitting around in howling winds and icy cold rain.When we set off again, I caved in and started listening to my i-pod, even though I had been planning to save it for the summit day. I needed something to cheer me up.

Serious mud!

Just before the second massive downpour 

 

Day Two was one of the most challenging in many ways. It was not so much the long walk, as some of the things we saw along the way. We had all trained sufficiently well, so nobody was having any difficulties in that respect. The first disturbing sight was of somebody being carried down the mountain on a stretcher. The whole body and face was covered in a sleeping bag and one of those tin-foil recovery blankets. We heard two stories about this person - one was that it was a climber who had ascended too quickly and was suffering from Acute Altitude Sickness and another that it was a porter who had met a much worse fate. I'm not sure which story is true, but a shiver ran through my whole body as I saw this person. It was a sharp wake-up call that what we were about to embark on could be very dangerous. The second upsetting thing was just before we arrived at the second base camp. One of the porters (from a different company) had not been wearing waterproofs and was saturated, shivering and shaking. Apparently he had hardly eaten that day either. We gave him some snacks and rehydration salts and our guides helped him carry the bag the remaining few hundred metres to the camp. The porters have a very physically demanding job and I started to feel like a bit of a princess for making another person carry my stuff up the mountain. We later found out that the porters are not permanent employees of the companies, but casual hire. They wait around at the bottom of the mountain and wait for groups to arrive and their pay is essentially the tips the group leave behind. As they are paid on a daily basis, many of them risk their health by taking only one or two days of rest, before starting on another trek up the mountain. It is now 4 days since I finished the climb and the most exercise I have done since then is a few laps of the pool, meanwhile, some of our porters could be half-way up to the summit again. We had made a bit of a faux-pas, by agreeing on a much lower tip than what we should have paid. Our understanding was that a tip is a little extra something that you give to somebody to say thank you for a particularly good service. When we discovered that our team of 16 climbers required 34 porters, 3 guides, 3 cooks and 2 waiters and that some of those people were relying on our tips to pay their wages, we made a quick dash to the ATM (in Moshi - I am not claiming that there is a cash point on the mountainside) and made amends. If you do decide to climb Kili, find out how the porters and paid in advance and ask the company exactly how much is required. These people are not protected by employment laws and have a very hard life.

Day Three

Day Three was a very well needed rest day. The idea is to acclimatise your body to the altitude (in this case 3700 metre above sea level) and to walk to a higher altitude - real mountaineers talk out 'climb high, sleep low'. It was also a good opportunity for us to dry out our clothes, as we were all starting to worry about not having enough dry clothes for the summit day.
The morning was lazily spent drinking endless cups of Milo, playing cards and snuggling up and snoozing in our sleeping bags.
Now I would like to mention some of the food we sampled on the trip. Being from the North of England, a region famous for healthy dishes such as deep fried Mars bars and Wigan Kebabs (that's a pie wrapped in thickly buttered white bread if you're unfamiliar with this term) it is very difficult to criticise food. Nor would I like to be responsible for catering for 16 whilst half-way up a mountain, with no power supply or running water. However, even I was unprepared for the surprise that a Swahili omelet is chips in an omelet - I kid you not. I was a little dubious about the nutritional value of this meal, but I was reassured that it contained all the essentials for mountaineering - carbs in the potatoes, protein in the eggs and a generous portion of fat in the greasy oil it was fried in!

Drying day!

Mmmmmm ???

Zebra Rocks

Before my body could digest the Swahili Omelet, we set off on our afternoon walk to Zebra Rocks. By this time, the weather had turned in our favour and we had the benefit of the walk and staying dry.

Day 4

Rested and dry, we started our journey towards the final base camp. From this point, we had a clear view of the summit. Inspiring and terrifying at the same time - inspiring because we knew what we were aiming for and terrifying because we had no idea how much snow was there and the path up looked mighty steep.

We're heading right to the top!

Layered up - the air's getting a bit think here!

At least it's pink!!

It wasn't long before the vegetation changed again and we entered an arid zone of tundra. The lack of plants was bad news for us, as it meant that we could no longer pee behind a tree, but would have to face the stinky latrine loos or pee in the wide-open space for all to see. We mostly opted for the second option - personal pride a having gone a long time ago! None of the women truly embraced the she-wee - a little contraption that lets you wee like a man, standing up. It's a shame really - it could have been very entertaining!



This was the section of the walk where we really had to start walking 'pole pole' or 'slowly slowly'. Many a Kili climber has been submitted to altitude sickness from racing ahead. As we got higher, going slowly became less of a problem as the air really started to thin out. None of us could really believe that the final 1.5kms could take us around an hour and a half, but it did. We kept plodding on, and the huts didn't seem to get any closer. I began to think they were a moving target.

Eventually, we got there, had another cup of Milo, dinner and a very early night before the summit ... and that deserves a post of its own!

Letters of Motivation

I have many tales to tell from the Kili trip, but will start with something that helped us all along the way. Each morning, we opened letters from friends, family and students with motivational messages. It was great to know that people believed in us and were thinking of us while we were away.

The funniest letter came from a student I taught last year, which reminded us that the mountain was very, very high and that she did not think we were that fit! Luckily we read it at the beginning and were able to laugh it off. My absolute favourite letter came from a boy in my class, who was very envious of the trip and said:
Please take care of my teacher and don't let her get lost in the snow desert!
Very cute indeed!

Summits and elections

While I'm halfway up a mountain, Uganda will be going through a momentous occasion of its own. The General Elections (or should I say Erections?) will be held this Friday. President Museveni has been in power since 1986 and is standing once again. Over the past few months, various political campaigns have been in full swing. Not for Uganda, the tedious 'Party Political Broadcasts' at the back end of the 9 O' Clock News. Here, pick up trucks loaded up with a serious amount of speakers blast any passers by with excruciatingly loud music (the NRM treating us to yet another rap unfortunately), shouting, microphone feedback and litter the streets with fliers. Virtually every inch of public spaces have been plastered in posters, predominantly yellow. It is illegal to take them down don't you know? In spite of all the publicity, I know several Ugandans who don't feel it is worth the bother of voting. I admire the spirit of my wonderful TA, who thinks that everybody should vote, so that they know they have tried their best. This time they have promised that the elections will be free and fair .

I am, of course, hoping that all goes smoothly and safely, whatever the outcome. No major touble has been forecast, although I did see a fleet of heavily armed tanks passing on the by-pass the other day. They must just be there for decoration ... When they say 'no major trouble', apparently they mean there may be a little tear gas thrown around here and there and there may be some riots, similar to those of September 2009. Not exactly peaceful in my book! This is all speculation, and maybe nothing at all will happen. Those staying around have been stocking up on bottled water, tinned and dried goods and jerry cans full of petrol just in case. It's a bit like the 'spirit of the war' without Vera Lynn! I hope that my friends don't have to spend too much time cooped up watching DVDs at home though and that the sun shines for them.

So Sunday should be a big day. All being well we should be on the 'rooftop of Africa' as we get up at midnight to climb to the summit.  Meanwhile in Uganda, the first results from the election should be coming out.

Warm thoughts going out towards everyone climbing Kili and everyone in Uganda at this time.